2007 Everest debrief: Al Hancock’s message from the land of giants: "Believe, believe in yourself"  An article from MountEverest.net

With so much action in Pakistan this year, there has been little time for Everest debriefs. But here goes one, just to remember what it's all about.

Teaming up with long-time friend Tim Warren, Al bided his time on Everest. After a long acclimatization and waiting game, the real push for the top started as he switched on his O2 system in Camp 3.

“I could just clip in the rope and go to sleep”

“The climbing up the Lhotse face to C3 on May 17th was great but the lack of oxygen was not so good; at times I felt I could just clip in the rope and go to sleep so, each time that feeling came, I would simply push through it. Soon I was at camp 3 and I hooked myself up to a bottle of oxygen and started to feel much better. All of that night we slept on O2 and continued to do so until we were safely back at camp 2.”

“On May 18th, I felt strong breathing that fresh bottle of O2 but it also meant more weight in my pack."

"We climbed up the Lhotse face and then we did a big traverse until we crossed into the yellow band, and then continued upwards pass the Geneva Spur until we found ourselves at the south col. As soon as we arrived we started getting our bodies ready, drinking as much water as possible, eating and getting some much needed rest. That night we would be leaving at 9:00 p.m. for the summit...”

A good climbing night

“That night the stars were shining like diamonds and the air was crisp - it was going to be a good night to climb."

"The first part of the climb took us up the triangle face. Once on top, after about 4 hours, we arrived at the Balcony where we changed our oxygen bottles.”

“From the balcony we climbed the south east ridge as the winds picked up with such intensity that you had to bend your head to one side - but the sting of ice crystals still found their way on to your face."

"As I climbed higher into the death zone my left toes became cold and then my entire foot. I was very aware of what was happening but, as long as I could wiggle my toes, I felt I could keep climbing. If at any time I couldn't, I would turn around.”

Alone in the dark

“At about 28,500ft my head lamp started to blink, letting me know that the batteries were going dead. 'Not now' I said to myself. I was all alone. Several climbers were way above me and my Sherpa was way below me - I could hardly see the glow from his light. At that moment I felt so... alone.”

“I was finding it harder and harder to breathe as the valve on my oxygen mask iced up so badly that every time I breathed in, the mask would get tighter on my face. For a few seconds, fear put its arms around me like a blanket on a cold night."

"I had to push the emotion away and deal with the problem. I tied a clove hitch into the rope and clipped in and just hung there so my hands would be free. At 28,500ft I took my oxygen mask off. Very carefully, I removed the iced up valve, reached around to my backpack, removed my pocket knife and cleaned the ice out once the mask was back together.”

First hug 10 minutes away from the top

“I was on my way again and climbing higher. I felt part of the mountain once again and I was moving faster. At the south summit I climbed past the climbers that had been ahead of me - there was just one climber and his Sherpa ahead now."

"I climbed through and up the Hillary Step... I knew that I was close, about 10 minutes from the summit. I came across the other climber and we hugged each other as he was on his way down. That will always be a special moment for me.”

Half the job done

“Soon I found myself on the summit and, to my surprise - I was all alone! It was a great feeling being there and looking out over the vastness of the landscape and thinking of the people that no longer walk among us. They were there for me every inch of the way as I climbed."

"About 15 minutes later three heads popped up from the north side - I believe they were from Russia. Soon, another climber from our team and his Sherpa, as well as mine, were on the summit with me. We all took photos. The roof of the world is not much bigger than an average sized coffee table and I feel so humbled to have had the opportunity to be there. Being on top of the mountain means you have only done half the job (you still have to get down safely.)”

“As I was leaving the summit, my left eye started to get very blurry and I would soon lose sight in that eye altogether. Apparently, this was the result of blowing ice crystals on the way up. My eye simply froze! All I had now was my right eye and, at times, I found it hard to focus."

"I continued climbing down by myself, knowing that my Sherpa was close behind. You never let your guard down - not for a second. Once at the balcony I changed my oxygen bottle and continued climbing down until I was at the South Col once again. The round trip took 11.5 hours. It was good to see the tents again.”

I could feel the weight of the mountain slip from my shoulders

“The next morning (May 20th) we were up early and climbed down to camp two, bypassing camp three altogether. On May 21st we would do the same thing, bypassing camp one all the way through the Khumbu icefall and into Base Camp. As I took my crampons off for the last time I could feel the weight of the mountain slip from my shoulders. I had made it!”

“Sagarmatha is a big mountain to climb - and she commands respect. This year several lives were lost; people turned around for different reasons and others were rescued; some toes and fingers were lost to frostbite. I feel very lucky to have been given safe passage by the goddess of the universe and to have climbed in the land of giants.”

The Project Everest 07 Challenge

Plan and execute a safe ascent, and safe return, of Mount Everest.

Mount Everest is widely considered the "Crown Jewel" of the Seven Summits. Everest is situated at the edge of the Tibetan Plateau, on the border of Nepal and Tibet. Most Nepali people refer to the mountain as Sagarmatha, meaning “Forehead in the Sky". The extreme altitude and cold weather make Everest a very difficult summit to climb and for many the most satisfying.